“I live in Mallorca, Spain, and I am not sure there are better places.”
Rafa Nadal
Well, Rafa would say that, he’s a local lad. He’s got a point though. The Spanish royal family visits every Easter and Summer. Rated Spain's best island, second best in Europe and sixth best in the world, it’s the island with everything.
The most visited of the Balearic Islands has been a big inspiration for generations of artists, writers and musicians, who have flocked to its shores in search of inspiration. The composer Chopin spent the winter of 1838-39 in Valldemossa along with the French writer George Sand. Chopin was inspired to finish the Preludes, Op 28 that he had begun in 1835, while Sand described her time here in A Winter in Mallorca, published in 1855. If you haven’t read it, a spoiler alert - she had a miserable time. But unless your partner has tuberculosis and you choose to stay in a stone-walled house in a mountain village in winter, you’re unlikely to feel the same way. It hasn’t put off the likes of Richard Branson and Michael Douglas, both of whom have homes on the island.
Agatha Christie also visited the island and wrote a short story about her stay, while the revered Spanish artist Joan Miró married on the island and settled there permanently in 1954. You can visit the Pilar and Joan Miró Foundation in Palma. The English writer Robert Graves lived on the island for many years and is buried in the beautiful village of Deià.
Mallorca is not just a paradise for beach lovers and culture buffs - it’s home to a wide array of sports, from mountain biking through its hills to the wide range of water sports practised off its shores. It’s great hiking country too, particularly in the ruggedly scenic Tramuntana Mountains. And if it’s city life you’re after, Palma de Mallorca is half an hour away. This fabulous city has so many highlights like La Seu, its wonderful cathedral looking out majestically over the harbour, yet is also a place to simply stroll and soak up the cafe and tapas culture. (See ‘Twenty Four Hours in Palma'.)
So what does the south west of Mallorca have to offer?
We stayed near Camp de Mar, a small resort on a beautiful bay backed by tree-lined cliffs. Try its little bakery for fresh bread and the Mallorcan speciality, ensaimadas. Attractive properties are studded around its higher leafy lanes. It used to have a real charm itself but unfortunately that’s largely gone as a consequence of inappropriate rather than over-development. The modern blocks and hotels have gone for the numbers and in doing so have achieved a very functional, bland appearance. Several cranes around the bay testify to ongoing development and presumably popularity. In 2012 it was used as a location for the film ‘Long Way Down’ written by Nick Hornby and starring Pierce Brosnan, Sam Neil, Toni Collette and Aaron Paul.
Generally it remains a very quiet and attractive resort largely thanks to its wonderful natural environment and the presence in the area surrounding the resort of some fabulous villas and apartments, including, it’s rumoured, a secluded and secure holiday home belonging to Mike Ashley. Newcastle fans might want to note that it’s valued at around…ooh, say a top class striker?
At the end of the peninsula sits Sant Elm. The winding road can be tortuous according to the coeliac, although as she had her hands over her eyes for most of the journey I don’t know how she can judge. But it pays dividends! It’s a fabulous location with many of the restaurants looking out over the bay to Sa Dragonera National Park, an island that can be visited - you can stick to its coast, check out the wildlife or follow one of three recommended trails. In the evening you’re also rewarded with a stunning sunset. As the evening grows darker, the lights around the bay become brighter, the boats in the harbour keep bobbing and it’s just delightful.
Na Caragola occupies a prime position. Ordering a rosado and manzanilla, the waiter returned with a pot of chamomile tea! This never happens in Andalucia, where sherry is king. That sorted, they brought a lovely all i oli dip and gluten free bread for the coeliac. My vieiras con pico de allo - grilled scallops with a brightly coloured Mexican sauce with dried mango slices, diced carrots and peppers - was excellent. Bacalao gratinado con gam was cod on a bed of potatoes served with fresh vegetables, whilst freshly caught John Dory was simply grilled. No gluten free desserts perhaps reflected over-caution, but I enjoyed the nube de queso - literally a cloud of cheese, a creamy foam with berries, served with a delicately fragranced rose petal ice cream. With a small bottle of Rioja, a Mallorquin dessert wine and that view, it had been rather splendid.
One look at the boats and yachts tells you that Port d’Andratx is the star of the south-west. Cafes, bars and restaurants cram its waterside. The sort of place where you can spend ten minutes waiting for a take-away pizza with Mark Lawrenson, Liverpool legend and BBC football pundit. No doubt it was a pizza of two halves. Inland from its busy waterfront you'll find a range of boutiques selling designer clothes, jewellery and shoes alongside small specialist shops including a couple of health food stores, especially useful for dietary requirements. But for the weekend of 13-15 July the town was transformed for the annual Festes Mare de Deu del Carme. La Virgen del Carmen, Protector of Fishermen, is celebrated around the coast. We caught a bus from Camp de Mar and joined the party.
A few drinks later things warmed up with an invasion of red demons brandishing weapons of fire. Excited children had long flaming forks waved at them by men with horns. With fully kitted firemen in the wings we waited for the roll call: Pugh, Pugh, Barney McGrew, Pedro, Lopez, Grubb…but it never came. A fantastic atmosphere, but imagine proposing that to Health and Safety back home. “You want to do what? With real fire?”
Saturday saw the horses of Menorca spectacularly strutting their stuff, Sunday was the Fishermen’s Parade and, with an ending worthy of Stephen King, the demons of fire were finally driven out by the Virgin. “Its Carmen home, it’s Carmen home…” Well, not quite. The dancing and live music was of dubious quality but who cares? Back to Mitj and Mitj for a nightcap and some late night people watching.
We also loved Umami Fresh Bistro at Carrer Zorilla. Tables with sparkly lit parasols on the sloping cobbles enjoy a harbour view and a great ambience. Starters of quinoa balls with hummus in a tomato sauce and a vibrant, fresh ceviche salad were wonderful. The duck was terrific and my char-grilled hamburguesa was as good a burger as I’ve had. The Portio Crianza Ribera del Duero was perfect. Jessica delivered super-friendly service but it’s small, so best to book. Taxi home? That’ll be €6 por favor.
The authentic working town of Andratx has a rustic heritage and narrow streets, set against the dramatic Tramuntana Mountains, featured in Selina Scott’s “A Long Walk in the High Hills’. And until his death in May 2017 it was home to Blue Peter legend John Noakes. Since 2001 it’s been home to the Centre Cultural Andratx (CCA), one of the largest contemporary art spaces in Europe. What’s more, it has a great cafe! In the central Plaza España, we relaxed outside Panaderia la Plaza, one of several cafes. Lazo de miel, a deliciously light honeyed pastry and two americanos was only €3.60.
Sunday lunch in Spain is a serious family occasion. We ate inside at Sa Societat, a traditional Mallorquin restaurant on Av. de Juan Carlos I. The house rosado from nearby Binissalem was refreshingly chilled and the room was full of Spanish families. The coeliac’s Mallorquin rice dish with peas and herbs was really good. Calomares con sobrasada was served in a shallow earthenware dish, the sauce made from chorizo juices - beautifully rich and enough for lunch on its own. After tucking into roast suckling pig with sliced potatoes and vegetable strips we found room for Mallorquin cheesecake and almond cake, both gluten free, served with ice cream. Espressos and cognac brought a tipico Spanish Sunday lunch to a close.
One evening we sat outside and tried their set menu for just €15.50. Generously portioned goats cheese salad and ravioli starters were very good. Similarly the cerdo (pork). Lubina (sea bass) with black rice and garlic mayonnaise was melt-in-the-mouth superb. We finished with baked chocolate sponge, rich melted chocolate oozing from its centre, and crema catalana with ice cream. Throw in four glasses of wine and we’d had an excellent three course dinner for €45.60. Great value.
Fancy going out for desayunos? Try the cafe / patisserie on the crossroads along Calle de la Constitucio. Tostado, tomato, olive oil, salt, Serrano ham and cheese. Perfect…washed down with fresh orange and suitably strong coffee. Gluten free bread available too. In the evening, Plaza España comes alive as families head out for tapas, watching their kids play in the centre. El Dimoni’s good for sampling a refreshing Hugo - gin, elderflower cordial, prosecco, soda water, a few mint leaves and a lime wedge - or a premium Vermut, over ice with a slice of orange.
From the south west coast all roads inland lead to the Serra da Tramuntana mountain range, a Unesco World Heritage Site, but if hairpin bends give you the shakes, stay by the pool! Taking the road towards Palma we ventured off in the direction of Es Capdella, a small village about 5 km away, half way between Camp de Mar and Calvia. On this leg the hairpins are relatively mild, but you’re rewarded with some jaw-dropping views. It’s picturesque and dramatic but don’t expect much to do in the village when you arrive. The homes range from rustic fincas to designer villas. It’s a place for stopping at, relaxing with a drink or a snack and enjoying the natural environment.
For eating out it’s got a surprisingly good offer. Most pockets would probably be happy with Es Moli. The smarter set might try Olivera Restaurant at the Castell Son Claret boutique hotel. But for that really special occasion - think winning the lottery or robbing a bank - you could sample a tasting menu at the two Michelin-starred Zaranda.
The Serra de Tramuntana stretch from Andratx for 90km to the Cap de Formentor in the north. You can have a wonderful day exploring the mountains’ jewels: drop down into the French-influenced Soller with its trams, stroll around the timeless Valldemossa, or go star-spotting in Deia. A little further on takes you to the wonderful monastery at Lluc and breathtaking sea views. And if you fancy trying the ultimate suckling pig? That’s to be found at Meson C’an Torrat, a family-run business that has made an art form out of its simplicity and that we first came upon almost twenty years ago. Milk-fed pork, potatoes roughly fried with garlic, local red wine…heaven! (Goat, rabbit and other rural staples are available.) You can even get a proper pa omb oli here, with the bread toasted on an open fire and olive oil grown on Teodoro the owner’s own farm just up the road.
Mallorca is an island that can both provide you with a specialist holiday - walking, cycling, water sports and more - and offer you variety and versatility. And in Palma it has a city with art and architecture at its sophisticated cultural heart. A night or two is a great way to break up an otherwise leisurely holiday, as we did, and superb for a weekend break. With amazing beaches and dozens of picturesque coves to choose from, have no doubt that Mallorca can satisfy your needs. All round the island are places with their own unique character to enjoy, but it’s hard to beat the south west. Advantage Nadal!
Wherever I lay my head
We stayed at La Reserva de Biniorella, the Mallorcan home of the Holiday Property Bond (HPB). There are 98 properties of various types including some that are wheelchair and mobility friendly. The site, located at the top of the hill leaving Camp de Mar towards Port d’Andratx and overlooking the bay, has superb facilities.
Otherwise there are lots of places in the area that would provide an excellent base for your holiday.
Supermarket sweep
It can be the scourge of a self catering holiday, but we’ve learned to enjoy the big shop. Find the right place and it becomes an opportunity to learn about the country and the locality that you’re staying in. In this area, two supermarkets stand out: the widely known Mercadona and Eroski, which is hard to say without sounding like Vic and Bob enticing the dove from above. Mercadona can be found in Paguera, five minutes away, and Andratx. Both feature covered car parking up a wide ramp - very important to come out to a cool car when the temperature is 30°+ outside. It’s very good on some items like fresh fish, but poor on wines, spirits and beers (although they have decent GF beers).
Eroski can also be found in Andratx with a smaller version in Port d’Andratx, though this doesn’t have its own car park. This has a great selection of alcohol, including a good range of wines from Mallorca - their Marcia Batle Rosado and Blanc de Blancs are especially worth buying. The important thing to note is that both supermarkets were noticeably cheaper in Andratx than their corresponding stores on the coast. So a bottle of La Guita manzanilla sherry - highly recommended - was €5.45 in Eroski at Port d’Andratx, but only €5.15 at its Andratx store. By the way, it’s £9.99 in Waitrose.
ATMs
We use a Caxton FX card to make cash withdrawals but beware - in this area we tried four cash machines before we found one that didn’t charge. Even then, if you choose conversion to sterling you’ll lose over €5 each transaction. Banks using Telebanco machines seemed to be the ones to use.
FOOTNOTE
This holiday was taken in 2018 - easy to remember as we watched England knocked out in the World Cup semi-final in a bar. So please allow that prices may have increased. Probably more importantly, who knows if these restaurants, cafes and other businesses will still be there post-Covid-19. We can only hope they are and, for now, dream of being able to support them at some time in the future.
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